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Unsolicited plug

It's been open since 1914, while more trendy eateries flowered, died, and were replaced by the guaranteed mediocrity of national chain restaurants. Aquavit, the Loring Grill, and a dozen others have opened, been celebrated by the foodies and the restaurant critics, and then closed their doors while said culinary snobs wail and gnash their teeth.

Meanwhile, Peter's Grill quietly continues to dish up breakfast, lunch, and an early dinner to thousands of businessmen, office workers, and just plain folks. Its one claim to fame is that President Clinton stopped by for lunch and enjoyed the Canadian Bacon & Egg sandwich, which is now memorialized on the menu as the "President Clinton" sandwich. Me, I don't care about the politics. I've been eating at the place for almost two decades, ever since it was on 10th Avenue over by Harmon, kitty-corner from the Goodyear. The food is good, basic Midwest fare with a gyro plate thrown in to remind you that the place is run by a clan of smart Greeks, the kind Mike Royko once praised in his column. It's all prepared fresh from scratch on the premises, served promptly and at a reasonable price considering the quality of the food and the service.

Quit wasting your time and your money with places that do hideous cross-cultural things to poor innocent hamburgers and fishes. Go forth and eat at Peter's. William J. Clinton and I don't have a lot in common, but we both agree on Peter's Grill. It rules.

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